Iida

The soft, almost fluffy texture of a lily-bulb dumpling meets the sweetness of red sea urchin. One visitor to Iida singled out this seasonal pairing, served on a plate adorned with a lotus leaf, as a particularly memorable dish. That day’s course also included a soup of egg tofu topped with finely shredded matsutake, scorpionfish served with its liver and skin, and mackerel sushi. The visitor recalled the depth of flavour in the broth and the texture of the egg tofu; the scorpionfish, they said, was springy, with sweetness and savouriness building as they chewed.

Conger eel, served with a plum-pulp sauce, was another dish, its flesh tender and full. Fried cutlassfish came with fresh ginkgo nuts and a sauce, while the simmered vegetable course paired small taro and zuiki, a taro stem, infused with dashi, with a tsukudani of Manganji pepper for a savoury accent. Rice was served with sujiko, salmon roe marinated in dashi. One diner said they wanted another helping despite being full, a measure of how memorable the rice course at the end of the meal can be. Fruit and sweets inspired by chrysanthemums, followed by matcha, brought the meal to a close with another seasonal flourish.

The tableware deepens the impression of the food. Several visitors mention the dishes themselves, including pieces by Rosanjin and a lidded vessel that one visitor described as about 180 years old. Another visitor also singled out the way the food and tableware are enjoyed as one of Iida’s distinctive qualities. With its striking presentation and considered pairings in every bite, this is a kaiseki meal for diners who want to focus on the food. Visitors have also described it as having the spirit of tea kaiseki without feeling overly formal, leaving them free to enjoy the dishes.

One visitor, for example, enjoyed Kokuryu Yamada Nishiki Junmai Daiginjo, Hyakumoku Junmai Daiginjo and Hatsukame Hizo Junmai Daiginjo. This offers a glimpse of one evening’s choices for anyone interested in pairing sake with the meal, but does not indicate which labels are currently available. Visitors have reported both counter seating and private rooms, making Iida an option for a quiet meal with conversation. The restaurant is described as reservation-only, and reservations are recommended for dinner. At Iida in Fukunaga-cho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, the meal is an opportunity to appreciate the season through both the cooking and the tableware.